The Wanderer: October 2008

Note: Some pictures here are taken from the net a long time ago. If someone can help me locate the source, I would gladly acknowledge it. Thank you very much.

I love old places. Going into one makes me feel nostalgic and happy. It makes me gauge how far we have gone. It brings back memories and it sparks my imagination. find That's why I frequent Old Manila. Unfortunately, tons of schoolwork kept me from visiting it after summer vacation. I get to visit briefly only on August with my cousin and we had a great time. But I want to have one of those long walks again, exploring every nook and cranny, soaking in all the sites and sounds. After several months of waiting for the break to finally come, here it is at last. I planned a trip back to Old Manila. I was excited to revisit it again. But before I continue, I will share a short but concise History of Manila

Though Old Manila is made by the Spanish, The history goes well beyond that. During Pre-Spanish Philippines, Filipinos have been trading with China, Arabia and India as early as 10th century. It has been said that when the Mongols invaded China, the last Emperor of the Song Empire fleed here for protection and set up the Empire of Luzon (lesser Song Empire). Ancient Tondo is its capital. It monopolized the trade of Chinese goods to other countries. Later on Brunei attacked prosperous Ancient Tondo and established a city they called Selurong. Thus, a prosperous Muslim settlement emerged. By the time of colonization, there is a rich settlement governed by Rajahs with a very colorful culture. Then the Spaniards came and set up a colony. Intramuros was born.

Old Manila, or Intramuros(meaning, "within walls") is the seat of the Spanish Colonial power during the olden age. But the history dates back even further from the Spanish colonization. It is actually considered as Manila itself during this time. Intramuros is surrounded by thick walls and deep moats to keep the invaders out. It is the posh village of long ago; only the rich and opulent live there. No Natives are allowed to live within its walls. It is the center of learning, government and religion before. The Governor General had his palace here. The main churches, schools and convents of the Religious orders are built here. The galleon trade later made it more rich, becoming a center of trade in the Far East. During it's heyday, it is a symbol of power and opulence. Later, when the Americans occupied Philippines, modernization took place in Manila. Trade and industries flourished and shifted outside the walls of the city. Intramuros was left untouched and was known to be one of the most preserved Medieval cities. Intramuros has suffered a lot form fires, invasions earthquakes and storms, but it rises more glorious than ever. The few years before the second World War shows Intramuros at its best.

And then the Japanese came. It marks the start of Philippines' dark age. During the three short but painful years, Intramuros was turned into the headquarters of the Japanese Army. The elegant schools and churches became concentration camps. It was one of the darkest chapters in Philippine history. When the American forces came back to the rescue, the Japs took their last stand here. The walls, cells and dungeons provide maximum protection for them. Rather than risking the lives of their men by entering through the heavily guarded gates, the Americans were forced to blast them out. It is the most sensible thing to do as of the moment. It is a matter of life and death. Historical landmarks are not of the utmost importance. Me,n women and children locked in the buildings was massacred then the place burned. After the war Intramuros and the rest of Manila was in ruins, the second most devastated city in the world, next to Warsaw. Inside the walls, only the church of San Agustin is left standing inside the walled city. Even the convent beside it was destroyed. Later on, most remains of the buildings are bulldozed off. Empty lots are occupied by squatters. Other ruins became warehouses. Today, through the efforts of the government and the people, Intramuros was partially restored. Most squatters are evicted and some ruins restored. But Intramuros today is a far cry from its former grandeur and Elegance. Most of it lives only in the memory of the people who saw it before and in the few pictures that exist.

There are many ways of reaching Intramuros. Most convenient is by taxi, of course but is pricey. I opt for a cheaper alternative. I take a bus bound for Quiapo or an LRT bound for Recto. I drop in Legarda to visit the all steel Church of San Sebastian, another, beautiful place to go into. Then, I walk to the Jeepney terminal right across the street and take a ride on the jeepney labeled San Sebastian, Central LRT, SM, etc., etc. IKOT. you cannot miss this jeep. go down by SM City Manila, then just walk towards the Manila City Hall. You would spot an underpass nearby. Just go through it. Once you go up, you are there!

I climb up the walls and started walking. I took some pictures here. They are quite low in quality as I used only a camera phone. I do not want to risk bringing my dad's digicam.

First building I took picture of is the Manila Bulletin.

Might not look that interesting, but this is the site of the pre-war church (Church of San Nicolas Tolentino) and convent of the Augustinian Recollects. Their church reputedly has one of the most beautiful altars in Manila. Facade of church is richly and elaborately carved. Destroyed in Battle of Manila, 1945.

Next stop is the Mapua Institute of Technology. It was once occupied by the San Francisco church and Convent of the Franciscan order. The Mapua Chapel is once occupied by the Chapel of the Third Venerable Order, both destroyed in 1945.

Mapua Campus (chapel covered by trees, extreme right)

Mapua Chapel

This Magnificent chapel once occupied the site of Mapua Chapel

Literally a few steps away is the Lyceum Campus. It is formerly the site of Hospicio de San Juan de Dios (a hospicio, or Hospital).

Lyceum Campus

Pre War Picture: Hospicio de San Juan de DIos

A few Blocks Away is Colegio San Juan the Letran. This is a new-ish structure, though based from an old picture, of the pre war version,they seem to have retained most of the old architecture. It is run by the Dominicans.(I actually took the picture on my way out of Intramuros, hence, it is almost twilight.)

Speaking of the Dominicans, let me show you this building. This box shaped building of BPI is once the site of the Santo Domingo church, home of the famous Marian image of La Naval de Manila (Our Lady of the Rosary)

BPI Building, site of the Old Sto. Domingo Church

Of all the churches here in Intramuros, it is the only one done in Gothic Style. The crown like Pinnacle of the tower reminds me of the onion shaped minarets of a mosque. Old timers say that this is one of the most beautiful churches in Manila. Unfortunately, it was destroyed in 1941, a few years before the war. Even though Manila was declared an open city(meaning the Japs are free to enter w/o resistance), Japs still dropped bombs and destroyed the church and convent.

Old Sto. Domingo Church

Ruins after the bombing in 1941

Of all the lost churches in Intramuros, this is my favorite; I'm Partial to Gothic Architecture :)

Nearby is the Old site of UST (sorry, no pic :( ) What's left of the Old site is the Arch of the main entrance, now found on their current site, in the district of Sampaloc. UST is the oldest university in Philippines and of Southeast Asia.

A few Blocks away is the famed Manila Cathedral. The present structure, built a few years after the war is the sixth cathedral to rise on this site. The fifth cathedral, of Romanesque designed was destroyed by the war. Only the facade was left. instead of being bulldozed, it was incorporated on the new cathedral, thus the similarity in the exteriors.

Back Of Cathedral

Pre-War Cathedral

Present Cathedral

The interior is different though. It is much simpler compared to the pre war version.

Pre War Interior (The arches on the apse are not there anymore. today, 3 stained glass windows are the only adornments on the altar. Paintings on ceilings are not present. Nevertheless, it was a great work of Ambeth Ocampo, the mind behind the new Manila Cathedral. It is a fine example of Modernist design in Philippine Churches.)

Practically beside it is the Palacio del Gobernador, the "Malacanang" of the Spanish government. it is not the original structure. But the present building still retains that colonial air.

Palacio del Gobernador

If we cross the Aduana St. (now Soriano Ave.), we reach the Fort Santiago. This is Where Rizal spent his last days before execution. As I did not enter it (it has an entrance fee) I do not have pics...

***

I took a U turn and went through the Arzobispo and Sta Lucia Sts. I came across ruins of the San Ignacio church.- the church of the Jesuit order.

San Ignacio Ruins

It is smaller compared to the other Intramuros Churches, but what it lack of size, it made up of its artistry. It is designed by architect Roxas, the same guy who designed the Sto. Domingo church of Intramuros. The exterior is of stone, gates of wrought iron and interiors of marble. The interior is "clothed" from top to bottom with wooden sculptural details, made by Isabelo Tampinco.

The pictures do not do these churches justice. It was much more beautiful on actual. Unfortunately, we only owe it to the memory of the people who have seen it.

It is so beautiful, that it was the talk of town for many years, and is a very fashionable place back then to hear masses. Unfortunately, the Japanese, in a last ditch effort to leave nothing useful doused it with gasoline and set it on fire. It took four days to consume all the beautiful woodwork. What is left of the church interior's woodwork can be found in the Ateneo Library of the Loyola Hts. Campus. The elaborate panel on the library's wall, sometimes mistaken as a non functional door is actually part of the ceiling of San Ignacio.

Exterior of San Ignacio

Right Across the street where the clamshell now stood is the former site of Ateneo de Manila. It is actually the second site of Ateneo. the first site is in what is now Manila High School. Then, the Jesuits was expelled from the Philipppines. Upon their return, they built their new church and school on the sites I now showed you. Then a fire in the late 1800's destroyed the Intramuros Campus. It moved to Loyola Hts. but the church remained in Intramuros. As said earlier, the Church would be destroyed in 1945.

The white thingy is where Ateneo once stood.

Old Ateneo

I now walk a couple of blocks from the Old Ateneo Site and arrive with the end of my walk: The San Agustin Church. This is the "living" reminder of Intramuros, the only one left standing after the war. A direct blasting destroyed a small part of the church (if you visit the church, that part is where the tomb of Lopez de Legazpi now exist) but it still stood proud and tall. The roof was destroyed too but the ceiling had remained intact. The strength of this church is not only tested during the war. Many calamities destroyed Intramuros itself. (fires, and earthquakes, for Instance) but, it survived all of these. This is the only original structure from Intramuros' golden days. Once I entered it, not only did I feel nostalgia. It was as if I went through another time, into the world of colonial Spain.

Renovations are being done on the deteriorating facade. A good thing since the one tower left on this church is in risk of crumbling any second. Maybe, after the renovations the people could hear the peal of the bells of San Agustin again.

The Elaborately Carved door. Note the merging of Oriental and Occidental styles in this door.

Pre War San Agustin

(note that Both Towers are still Intact. Left tower was damaged in earthquake and had to be removed)

Renaissance and Baroque Altars flank the side chapels and centuries old Chandeliers light up the interiors. The artwork here is simply amazing. Centuries old Tramp o'leil paintings by two Italian artists decorate every surface of the church.

Beautiful Interiors!(San Agustin is the Oldest church in the Phils., BTW)

A wedding taking place

Do go up the Choirloft and you will see great views of the church. also note the elaborate woodcarvings of the choirstalls and the humongous cantoral. It is a sight to behold.

The Choirloft view. The cantoral is the towerlike thing on the left with the giant songbook. I plan on going to the former site of lourdes hurch but it is fast becoming dark. So I decided to leave and plan again fro future trips.

Some More Pictures...

Dates indicating age of bricks(1981 bricks are installed probably as part of the restoration project of Intramuros.)

Fountain in Plaza Roma, Facing Manila Cathedral(not seen in picture)(Plaza Roma is named in honor of Rome, seat of the Pope. Likewise, in honer of this, Rome named a plaza after us: Piazza de Manille, if I'm not mistaken)